Went surfing yesterday
I went surfing at the Hook in Santa Cruz yesterday. The surf report said 4-5 feet, only to be disappointed. The surf was small, weak, and not much power behind it. Ocassionally, a 4-5 foot wave would show up, but catching it was the problem.
I was feeling undergunned. In the end, I still got five rides, but all were short rides of five seconds or less. Maybe more thickness and volume to the board would help, but I’m sort of over the longboard part of my career.
Maybe, when I turn 50 years old or older, I can go back to riding my longboards. Hehe.. Next time, I’ll pay more attention to the wave frequency. Yesterday, it was every 9 seconds. 13 seconds or more is ideal.
Leave a Reply