Surfing again
Got in the water in Santa Cruz yesterday. I had a very nice session. 5 very long rides. Didn’t stay long, though. I started shivering after 2 hours. Water is too cold. I guess I’m always going to be complaining about that. Can’t help it. I always get a chuckle when I see longboarders start paddling 40 feet in front of the wave. Like they really need the jump.
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