First time surfing in 6 months
I went surfing today for the first time in 6 months. I paddled out and was reminded of how cold the water is in Northern California. It is freezing. I checked the temperature on my watch and it said 13 degrees Celsius or 54 degrees Fahrenheit. No one seemed to complain about the water temperature.
I did ok the first hour, but two hours later, I started shivering. I didn’t want to paddle in until I get a really nice ride. That means waiting for nice wave for a few minutes. Finally, what seemed like 5 minutes of shivering, a nice wave came and I was in a perfect location to catch it. I rode it 3/4 of the way home.
Today was actually a good session. I got several nice rides and got two compliments for it. Not bad for someone who hasn’t surfed in six months. Yeah, yeah. So I took the longboard today. I figured I take it easy since I haven’t surfed in six months. I wanted to get my feet wet again (no pun intended) before I take out my shortboard.
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